Each Cook Ought to Train Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants.

When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.